Montale Chypre Vanille

I thought I was going to remain Montale-less after my skin rejected and made some of them (and me) cry. I had big expectations, but the Aouds turned sour and Blue Amber just sat there mocking my skin. Then I went digging in my sample stash and found Chypre Vanille, which made everything better.

I shouldn't be surprised. I'm one of the freaks who wear vanilla notes really well. My skin plays up the dark part of it and not the sweet. The combination of a chypre with a woody vanilla is one that promises and delivers.

I loved the opening. It has the chypre-y kick of a real diva, only a bit more tame. This diva is wearing black velvet opera gloves that cover her red talons. Soon enough it softens and draws the nose (literally. I had it stuck to my wrist, inhaling deeply) into the folds of amber and sandalwood laced with a beautiful non-foody vanilla.

(As a point for comparison, Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens, which isn't really a gourmand since it's quite heavy on the bois part, also has that very candied benzoin that keeps it on the almost edible side. Chypre Vanille has nothing of the sort)

Oakmoss isn't listed among the official notes, but I could swear that I detect it early on. as it develops, I don't get any of the florals, except maybe a hint of rose which is quickly gone. What I'm left with is a skin scent that settles on me naturally, like it's always been there. It happens to me with many vanillas. They just make themselves at home while I'm looking at them fondly.

This one is probably a full bottle worthy. My only hesitation is the mediocre lasting power. It's not fleeting, just folding itself into my skin, if that makes sense.

Chypre Vanille, like all the Montales are also available from Aedes in the bigger 3.4 oz bottle.

Olfactory Heartbreak- Montale Black Aoud & Blue Amber

Skin chemistry is fun. Except for when two fragrances that sound heavenly and perfect seem to not do what they are supposed to on my skin, and leave me with an unfulfilled longing. Two scents have broken my heart like this. They are two of the most popular Montales: Black Aoud and Blue Amber.

It's interesting in a cruel sort of way. Usually when I really like or really hate a fragrance I don't think of them as combination of notes, but more of an impression, good or bad, that evokes something deeper. However, with these two it was almost a game- to feel and identify the notes one by one as they appear. Which is probably what went wrong. I never got the picture. just the colors, and none of them felt right.

Black Aoud is a cyclical game of rose, camphory rose, leathery rose and back to rose. I get none of the mystery or darkness. The aoud part is dangerously close to turning sour, which I'm pretty sure isn't supposed to happen. It's rumoured to be extremely sexy, but I can assure you that my skin isn't having any of it.

Blue Amber starts with a very strong amber note, a hint of bergamot and a side of something stale. It feels like a cartoon version of amber, if you could have a cartoon scent. Exaggerated and aggressive instead of the promised contemplative and magnificent. I can smell the potential in the vial, but my skin is dead set against it. As it develops, the patchouli and vanilla soften it and make it all better. The drydown feels very similar to Mazzolari's Lei, only not as well rounded or comforting, because the amber leftovers and my skin do not agree with each other.

It's frustrating, because I can actually smell all the good notes in both scents. I know that they are there, they just refuse to come out and play with me.