Ask the Non-Blonde 1: Purple Eye Shadow

I love getting questions from readers, both through the blog's comments and by email. I email back when applicable, but this one was left as a comment and would probably be of interest to others. I was asked to recommend a rich purple/plum eye shadow for a green-eyed reader in her 30s.

My reply: The exact color that is right for you depends on your skin tone even more than on your eye color. There are many beautiful purples, and plum is a great option, because as a warmer color than violet it's more flattering on most. The ones I'm listing here are my personal favorites:

Dior 2 Color Eyeshadow. You can't go wrong with Dior. The shadows are very pigmented, easy to apply, blend beautifully and last without fading and creasing. Diorart is a combination of a soft plum and medium/fair pink that complements it beautifully. For more drama, there are the new. They are bolder and more shimmery. Amber Plum has a golden sheen and would look lovely if you're looking for a warmer tone.


I've written before about Bourjois Petite Guide de Style. The tiny booklets are among my favorite makeup items of the season, and I find all the colors to be very wearable. Excellent quality and long wear make them a very attractive option. Coquette Rosette is a violet/pink combo. From my experience, the shimmer is very delicate and is office appropriate.

Lorac single shadows (as well as their palettes) are among the best around. They are never too shimmery, but the colors are true to to what you see in the little pots. Garnet is a rich plum, one that I would have bought for myself if I didn't own several others already (Diors and a couple of sadly discontinued Elizabeth Ardens).

I love those 5-color eyeshadow compacts from Dior. Each one offers several different looks, the colors are great and the quality is superb. Since I was on a quest for new and fresh spring looks that don't include bubblegum pink, Malibu Barbie or an enbalmed corpse, I decided to see what I can find in those navy blue compacts.

I was curious about the lighter shades, though I knew that most likely they wouldn't work for me. That's the problem with my particular skin tone. It's not spring-friendly and leaves me envious of those who can wear pastels, whispery pinks and most everything that's traditionally associated with the season. I also don't have the personality for anything of that sort, but a girl can dream, right?

As I expected, none of the delicate colors suited me. Unlike most light colored eye shadows, the Diors are very pigmented and do show up on my skin, but both Moonray and Mystic Jade (the one I was most curious about since seeing it on one of Neiman's spring looks) looked horribly chalky on me. Both would be fabulous on very light complexions, on which the almost-white base of the powder won't show up. It was frustrating, because I really wanted to find something in a light sage green color (mint green would never look right on my face), but neither were made for me.


I looked longingly at Myriad. It's one of the most stunning compacts I've seen. All those shimmery blues are beautiful. I can pull off muted blue eye shadows quite easily and own several, but this was just too much. I don't need electric blue shimmer,and chances are that you don't, either. Unless you go clubbing every week.

I wasn't in the market for anything brown, but on a whim, decided to try the colors in Beige Massai. They are brighter and livelier than in the photo, and the minute I tried them I knew that I found my cheery spring look. The biggest surprise was the light beige sheen. I have such a hard time finding a beige eye shadow that actually shows up on my skin and highlights my brow. This one is perfect. I'd definitely buy it in a bigger individual pan. All the other colors are pretty and very warm. They have a sheen, but not a shimmer, they light up the face and are very flattering. Their decidedly warm base might not work for everyone, and I know that on the very pale skinned with bluish undertones you'd get the infamous muddy effect. However, if you're rust and bronze friendly, you'd want to try Beige Massai. It just might be the compact you'd use most this spring/summer.

Lip Service IV: In the Red (sort of)

This is a good time as any to talk about red lipstick. I was looking at this photo of Anne Hathaway, who is very lovely. But the lip color just doesn't work. Am I the only one who sees this? It's too harsh and isn't flattering at all. Not something that would make me run to Sephora and buy the look.

Anne Hathaway isn't the only one that doesn't look her best in such bold lip color. I wasn't too impressed with Michelle Williams' Oscar makeup (though I loved the vibrant yellow dress), and I don't think that Reese Witherspoon is doing herself any favors here:


But the blondes aren't the only ones having a hard time wearing true red. This non-blonde has long ago discovered that although the idea of wearing Chanel Red or any color like it is very alluring, it doesn't work in reality, and an adjustments must be made. Catherine Zeta Jones seems to be of a similar opinion. Although she usually wears deep, reddish colors, it's never the shades I've shown above. I don't know what exactly Catherine is wearing. Maybe I should check the Elizabeth Arden counters for it. But I'm more than happy with both my old Lancome stand-by and with my newest discovery- Dior Addict in Digital Brown, which is neither digital nor brown, but is a very pleasant reddish color.

But first, let's talk Lancome. I've been using the Sugared Maple for more years than I can remember. It's always been my daytime red, something that is strong and visible enough, but never over-the-top. It's a brownish red that goes well with most of my clothes and has a pearly finish that isn't too shiny. It's interesting to note that the same color on my sister, who is a much paler non-blonde, is still very beautiful but can only work for night. It's too dark on her to be worn casually.

Lancome has made a small change to this lipstick over the years.I started using it when it was part of the Rouge Absolu line before this range became very creamy, and nowadays it's a Rouge Sensation. I don't think that the formula has changed,just the packaging, as Rouge Absolu used to include several options for a finish. The texture is what it's always been- not too dry, good staying power and good coverage. It would probably not suit very dry lips without blending it with a gloss (and then losing some of the color). I like it so much that I have a tube in just about every purse.

Lately I've been looking for a more modern take on the brownish red subject. And I've found it at Neiman's Dior counter. Dior Addict in Digital Brown looks like a lighter version of Mapled Sugar. It's a little more red and more sheer, the finish is still pearly or metallic. I think it has a better coverage, though, like SM it is a bit dry and I'd be careful using it on days that my lips tend to chap. But it stays put for hours, doesn't bleed or melt, and overall it's my new favorite. For extra comfort I do layer it with gloss: DiorKiss in Praline- a nude (on me)color that gives shine and moisture and works well with any brown lipstick.

Mother's Day- Chloé

I probably owe my love (not to say obsession) for scents and fragrance to my mother. Lotions, potions, high-end fabric softener, French soaps in my lingerie drawers, lavender sachets in the closet and a certain quirk regarding vanilla sugar that does wonders to the smell of kitchen cabinets.

There, on top of the pyramid of all Things that Smell Good stands perfume, which my mother has taught me to appreciate, love and never leave the house without applying some.

Some time during the late 70s my mother discovered Chloe. Back than it was considered a fine department store fragrance and was a bit hard to find. It came as an EDP in a frosted glass bottle. I was too young to really think about notes and layers, but just like everyone who was lucky enough to get close had no doubt that it smelled wonderful on her.

It became her signature, earned her many compliments and comments from just about everyone. When asked by women what it was, my mom would usually say "Oh, just something French". She always preferred not to smell like everyone else and never gave in to fragrance trends (Giorgio Beverly Hills never entered our house). When someone- a friend or a neighbor tried Chloe it never smelled the same on them. The sparkling, lovely floral formula with a powdery finish was clearly made for my mother.

This was the only scent she would wear, day in and day out for nearly 30 years. I grew up to become the complete opposite. I wear something different every day. For me there is a fragrance for every mood, every weather, every activity. I rarely put on the same perfume two days in a row, unless I have something new that I'm completely in love with. While I was discovering the allures of Calvin, Ralph and Estee my mom was going through bottle after bottle of Chloe. I changed boyfriends, got married, dabbled in Cartier, Tiffany, Jil Sander and Armani while my mother stayed lovely and unique in Chloe.

There's been a change in recent years. The Karl Lagerfeld fragrance has been downgraded to drugstores everywhere, the frosted bottle is no more (replaced with a clear one) and the EDP seems to have been discontinued, though PerfumeMart lets you join a waiting list for it. I've joined over a year ago and have yet to hear back from them.
Some reviews on MakeupAlley.com claim that the original formula has changed and it's not as good as it used to be.

The last year has indeed seen a change: My mom started trying on and using new fragrances. Last autumn we both discovered Dior's Pure Poison (the mix of white florals, orange blossom and my beloved jasmine appeals to both of us). Her most recent purchase was quite surprising: Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker. I'm not a big fan (too floral and flighty for me, or maybe it's the patchouli), but my mother loves it and only complains about its staying power- seems like Lovely needs to be used heavy-handedly to keep even a trace of it for a few hours.

I don't think that this is the end of the Chloe days, but I'm glad to be able to compare fragrance notes with the person responsible for this little hobby of mine.