Burberry Sheer Eyeshadow 03 Porcelain

During the first weeks after Burberry Beauty was launched it looked like everyone was choosing either Trench (02) or Gold Trench (04) as a base/brow bone color. I tried both and liked them well enough, but my true match was Porcelain (03). It's that perfect neutral- not too pink, not too yellow. Porcelain is not really a highlighter but it's light enough to open up the eye area and make one look awake.

The real story about Burberry eye shadows (other than the sleek metallic packaging and the Burberry check pattern embossed on the velveteen pouch that comes with each one) is the texture. It's wonderfully soft and luxurious and feels almost creamy. The formula is easy to apply and blend no matter which eye shadow brush I tested with it. The satiny finish and color integrity last throughout the day and look just as fresh 12 hours later over a primer (so far I've used it over Kanebo Sensai, Urban Decay Primer Potion and something or other from Smashbox).

I've been Porcelain with Burberry Taupe Brown (photos and reviews coming soon) as well as with darker eye shadows from other brands (mostly Chanel and Guerlain) with great success. It really is a good base color.

The Burberry rep at my local Nordstrom used the brand's makeup brushes when she did my makeup. She said they will be offered for sale around the holidays, which means quite soon. I liked the look and feel of them- they seemed more practical than the face brush with the square handle which is the only one released so far.

Sue Devitt Victoria Falls Eye Intensifier Pencil

The chubby Eye Intensifier pencils from Sue Devitt have been part of my makeup arsenal long before starting this blog. They are wickedly efficient multitaskers that require very little skill or effort to give one a pretty look. They work both as an eyeliner (medium to thick line) and an eye shadow, can be smudged, sheered and create the perfect smoky eye. The Eye Intensifier pencils are also my go-to item for a simple casual look (aka "just dropping at the dry cleaners/post office/corner store before getting back into jammies and slippers") that still gives my eyes depth and definition. So, yes, Sue Devitt has earned her place in my shortlist with this one.

Victoria Falls is a gorgeous rich almost navy blue. It's one of the colors I find most flattering on me, both for my skin tone and eye color. It's not too bright and doesn't look age inappropriate (I keep everything else nude/neutral), but definitely noticeable in a very good way. I've been playing with Victoria Falls in several combinations and looks- top lashes, bottom lashes, paired with nothing but a black mascara or smoked out with some Chanel Bois Bleu eye shadow. The pencil always works and looks much more sophisticated that the 30 seconds per eye it actually takes.

I use a primer, of course, and the Eye Intensifier stays put without creasing or fading for about 8-10 hours (depending on weather and activity). Topping the pencil with an eye shadow cements it in place until I bring on the makeup remover. The one thing I wouldn't recommend is using this product on the waterline. Not that it's meant for that in the first place- the Eye Intensifier is many things but it's not a kohl, as I've learned the hard way- it made my eyes water and sting when I tried. It was my fault, though, so I now keep it on the outer side of my lashes and all is well.

Bottom Line: highly recommended.

Sue Devitt Eye Intensifier Pencil ($22) is available from Barneys, Bloomigdale's and Ulta, as well as through the company's website (suedevittbeauty.com), which right now offers a 20% discount for the holiday weekend (no code needed).

Giorgio Armani Maestro Eye Shadow Quad #3 Earth

While the fall 2010 look from Giorgio Armani is all about cool tones, there's actually a Maestro eye shadow quad in traditional autumn colors. Number 3, Earth, is all about the color changes of fall, leaves and the light and shade moving and shifting between tree brunches. It's as pretty as it sounds. I took the photos outside in late afternoon light a couple of months ago and you can see how light affects these color. I've been wearing it all summer, but I think it's appropriate all year round.

I have several of Armani's Maestro quads and this one might be one of the best. The texture is as smooth as we've come to expect from the brand and the finish of these four is among the prettiest I've seen. As always, they apply and blend perfectly. I keep buying the Maestro quads despite my annoyance with their design. The narrow pans are among my least favorites, as I prefer using wide brushes. It's workable, but I hope for a redesign at some point.

The other issue, more specific to this quad is the color combination. They are all gorgeous, of course, but I'd be a tad happier if the gold would have been replaced with a golden beige or another more natural shade. This gold is a bit to yellow for me to wear under the brow, so I have to supplement the palette with a nude color from another set. It's not an issue when doing my makeup at home, but if I were considering packing the quad in a makeup bag for use on the go I'd have to add another item.

Cle de Peau Malachite (201) Eye Color Quad

The problem with the beautiful new eye shadow quad from Cle de Peau is sparkle. And lots of it. Lots and lots and lots of sparkle, which is probably not what one wants from an ultra high-end brand.

I couldn't resist Malachite (#201). The coordinated quad of rich green, taupe and other neutrals is gorgeous, the texture silky smooth and they blend together effortlessly. A couple of strategic brush strokes and I have an elegant look with just a hint of eye popping green. It's lovely, really. Except for the sparkle/micro-glitter/whatever  fallout which takes longer to clean up than it takes to apply three or four colors from the palette. And then there are the particles that are left on the skin, which I'm not sure are entirely office-friendly. I'm pretty sure if I would have kept the quad for after-hours  if I were still teaching fifth grade math.

Which is really a shame. Such a beautiful palette (even if the pattern you see in the photos is just an over-spray and disappears the first time you swipe a brush over it) should get a lot more use. And I shouldn't have to frantically scrub my cheekbones to get rid of glitter before leaving the house.

The funny thing is that when swatching the colors at Saks and at home- both for the photos and when I showed the quad to a young cousin- the glitter barely showed. Yes, it's shimmery but you only get the full effect when applied on your eye lids.

Bottom Line: pretty but cranky is not a good look.

Cle de Peau eye color quad ($55, the refillable case is sold separately for $25) in Malachite and four other colors can be found at Saks, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus.

Lancome Erika F Ombre Absolue Eyeshadow G40

Or: In Which I Tackle A Legend

I was never sure how much of the Erika F hype was because this specific Lancome formula is not available in the US (due to an ingredient that wasn't approved for use here), and how much was the product itself. A few months ago my beautiful sister got me the real thing overseas and I've been playing with it since.

My sister, by the way, was quite indifferent when she saw it. In her opinion this line doesn't compare to Chanel Ombres Contraste Duo, and I guess she's right. Quality-wise there are many better eye shadows out there. From texture to tenacity (and pigment integrity), Lancome Ombre Absolue is nice but far from perfect. Still, there is something about Erika F that makes it, indeed, very special.

Many a blogger has written about Erika F and found the color hard to describe. It tends to look a bit different in almost every picture and the swatches vary greatly between skin tones and the lights used. I also find a difference between the way it appears on my lids and the swatch. The skin in my area is darker, making Erika F appear somewhat sheer, depending on the brush I use. My perception is that the color is a khaki-based silver with just a little taupe that prevents it from being too cool/silvery. I'm very careful with silver eye shadows, but I find this one very wearable. As long as we're talking evening and night out makeup, that is.

I apologize to everyone who wears Erika F to the office/PTA meetings/vet appointments, but I don't know how you do it. It's so shimmery with visible glitter particles and attracts so much attention, I just can't see myself wearing it before sunset and without being dressed to kill. It's gorgeous, it catches the light and makes brown eyes really stand out, it can be applied on the lid and in the crease or even just along the lash line above a jet black eyeliner. It just isn't an everyday item.

Then there's also the issue of shimmer fallout and it drives me crazy. Using the best primer money can buy (Kanebo Sensai) helps a little, but I still end up the night with glittery cheeks. Then again, if one expects a flawless application it's better to stick out with Le Metier de Beaute and Edward Bess.

To read more and see pictures, swatches and comparisons to other sort-of-similar colors, please check these posts from The Beauty Look Book,  Pink Sith, Cafe Makeup and Blogdorf Goodman.

Lancome Erika F (#133) Ombre Absolue Eye Shadow G40 is available in Europe, Asia and the Middle East.  Prices vary by location and this is such a bestseller counters tend to sell out more quickly then they can restock, some patience and legwork might be needed if you or your loved ones are on a quest to find it.

Buxom Mutt Stay There Eye Shadow

I'm always tempted by cream eye shadows. There's something about the texture, smooth finish and the promise of superb blending that get my money every time. Then there's reality where I find out that 4 out of five times all these good qualities come at the high price of creasing, smudging and melting. Primers help, though, and some brands are starting to get it right (Laura Mercier is a good example), so I'm optimistic.

This summer Buxom by Bare Escentuals released the gimmicky-named Stay There eye shadow. It has a cute canine theme, the eye shadows are named after dog breeds and a tie-in with Canine Companions for Independence, a non-profit organization that enhances the lives of people with disabilities by providing highly trained assistance dogs. All that and some gorgeous colors certainly added to the irresistibility factor. After a thorough look at the shades, I chose the predictable taupe: Mutt. Since these shadows are so shiny and shimmery, a classic neutral is a better fit for me.

The texture of this Buxom cream is wonderful. It's soft, airy and almost whipped. As a germaphobe I prefer to use makeup brushes, but I admit Stay There makes it tempting to dip your fingers in the pot. The cream applies easily, and blends as smoothly as I hoped. It's very pigmented and one can create pretty effects and a glamorous but sophisticated look. I prefer to keep it low on the lid and closer to the lash line so the iridescence doesn't take over the entire eye area and I don't look like a disco queen.

As promised, the mutt stayed in place with no creasing or migrating. However, after only a couple of hours it started fading, losing the pretty finish and a lot of the pigment. Within three hours it faded to only a hint of color on my eyelids. I got the same results no matter which primer I used, so that's a real disappointment.

Nars Rajasthan Duo Eye Shadow Fall 2010

It's pretty safe to say that Rajasthan, the midnight blue/metallic beige eye shadow duo, has proven to be the most irresistible item in the (very strong) Nars fall 2010 collection. Most brands have come up this season with a deep dark blue, but this one is unique enough to justify a purchase even if one already has a couple of the others.

At first I didn't think I'd wear both colors from this set at the same time. The beige looks darker in the compact than it is on skin, and while it's still not exactly a highlighter it's soft and neutral enough to be worn on the lid when I'm using the blue shade in the outer corners and along the lash line. My photos don't do justice to the depth and richness of the blackened midnight blue. It's absolutely gorgeous and can work both as a daytime eyeliner or for a super dramatic evening look. The shimmer is grownup, the texture satin-like, and while it's not as buttery as Guerlain or Shiseido, I think I prefer these Nars shadows to most Armani equivalents.

As with all Nars eye shadows, I find a primer necessary to keep the integrity and finish of the look. Used over my favorite base by Kanebo Sensai, Rajasthan stays put from morning to night and looks almost as fresh throughout the day.

Dolce & Gabbana Stromboli 110 Eye Shadow Duo

Stromboli #110 Smooth Eye Colour Duo from Dolce & Gabbana's makeup line is an excellent option for a quick but dramatic evening look. The concept is pretty close to NARS Tzarine, but both the execution and the colors are better.

This Dolce & Gabbana duo offers a golden pink champagne color and a contrasting smoky black that looks more glittery in the pan and in the swatch than the way it applies on lid. It's still full of silvery sparkle, but the final result is more sophisticated than what I had initially expected, as long as used sparingly.

The light side is especially great when applied over a cream shadow- it's not necessary by any mean, but I like the extra depth and velvety appearance it gives. The color itself is not really a highlighter on me, so if I'm after more drama I add something under the brow and in the corner (Edward Bess highlighter or NARS chubby pencil in Goddess). Blending the dark shadow right above the lash line and in the outer corner (go lightly. This is a very pigmented eye shadow) completes an evening look. Even if I do some enhancing, the entire process takes only a minute and a very good brush (Edward Bess eye brush is perfect).

Sue Devitt Nordland Silky Sheen Eye Shadow

I'm a fan of Sue Devitt makeup and have several Silky Sheen eye shadows in my regular rotation.  I was thrilled to get Nordland as a GWP recently, since it's been on my "to buy" list for a while now. The color is a smoky brown based purple that goes very taupish mauve on my skin (wrist and lid alike). It's as neutral as it is pigmented, and the silky texture makes applying and blending a breeze.

You will notice that the finish of Nordland is a little different than that of the three colors I showed in my older post. It's less metallic and looks like a light shimmer over a matte base. That's how it appears on the lid, though I'm pretty sure I used a different base in the previous post. I get more sheen when I use the Sue Devitt shadows over Kanebo Sensai eye base than over the one from Urban Decay.

Eye Shadow Application Tips

Clever use of eye shadow could enhance your natural eye shape and even disguise problems such as droopy lids, wide set eyes etc. There are some typical rules to follow. I have just published a video on applying makeup on your eyes using eye shadows. Applying eye shadows, if you know how to do it in a proper manner, could radically change your look. Here's how you can do it -

Hope you like this eye makeup tips video.

The feline-induced misfortune that sent my Lorac Moonstone eyeshadow aflying, ashuttering and asprinkled all over the bathroom has resulted in a few nice beauty discoveries. While I haven't replaced Moonstone, I did get another Lorac single shadow, Cocoa. It ended up being too dark for using as a highlighter, but the taupish color is very pretty and works surprisingly well in the crease and for contouring.

It's understated and neutral, the sheen is subtle, and like every Lorac Shadow I've come across so far, nicely pigmented, so brushing on a thin coat is all I need. The shadow stays in place without fading or flaking, and since I use an eye primer, it doesn't fade until I remove it. Cocoa has become one of my favorite daytime neutrals this summer, and I can see it being used just as much in the fall with a bold lip.

I haven't tried it wet, though it's a wet/dry formula. Someone with a pale skin can easily use it as a liner and create a very elegant smoky eye without the "morning after" effect. Just remember that the color is quite a bit darker than it looks both in the picture and in Sephora's store lighting.