Summer Reading

Summer at Tiffany by Marjorie Hart is a charming little memoir of New York City in the mid 40s. You can almost see and feel the city as it was back then, the excitement and naivete of two Midwestern college girls experiencing the city for the first time. I have a thing for old movies, especially those that were filmed in Manhattan, and reading this book is almost like watching one.

From the front flap:

Do you remember the best summer of your life?

New York City, 1945.
Marjorie Jacobson and her best friend, Marty Garrett, arrive fresh from the Kappa house at the University of Iowa hoping to find summer positions as shopgirls. Turned away from the top department stores, they miraculously find jobs as pages at Tiffany & Co., becoming the first women to ever work on the sales floor—a diamond-filled day job replete with Tiffany blue shirtwaist dresses from Bonwit Teller's—and the envy of all their friends.

Hart takes us back to the magical time when she and Marty rubbed elbows with the rich and famous; pinched pennies to eat at the Automat; experienced nightlife at La Martinique; and danced away their weekends with dashing midshipmen. Between being dazzled by Judy Garland's honeymoon visit to Tiffany, celebrating VJ Day in Times Square, and mingling with Café society, she fell in love, learned
unforgettable lessons, made important decisions that would change her future, and created the remarkable memories she now shares with all of us.

It will make you want to try on one of the Tiffany blue nail polishes reviewed in Blogdorf Goodman last week. I don't think I can pull of this particular look, but the colors are gorgeous. I think they look best against pale skin.


For those who share my love of NYC memoirs and wish to read something a bit more literary, Here's one of my most favorite books of all time: Manhattan Memoir by Mary Cantwell.

Mary Cantwell was a fashion writer for several magazines. Her three-part memoir covers her New England childhood and her adult years as a working woman in Manhattan of the 50s and 60s. The book is beautifully written and pulls you into her world.

Memory Lane III- Tiffany

There aren't too many icons of glamor that are bigger and bolder than Tiffany & Co.. The robin egg blue boxes, the instantly recognizable store, Audrey and her breakfast...
Years before I had my first piece of Tiffany jewelry or even set foot in one of their stores, I owned a bottle of their original perfume. A bottle of pure femininity, glamor and mystique, which made my 22 year old self feel larger than life.

I knew very little about perfume back then, and couldn't really recognize notes. I didn't have much of a defined taste (other than realizing that peachy-fruity scents made me gag) and could barely recognize scent groups. I can't remember if I knew back then what's in the juice, but I knew that this one was BIG.

Tiffany perfume is, indeed, a big floral. Not as heady as tuberose based scents, but floral all the same. It's beautifully blended, so none of the flowers takes center stage. The notes are: rose, jasmine, iris, ylang-ylang and orange blossom. Like with other old favorites that I've been wearing for many years, I can't deconstruct the fragrance and analyze it even semi-objectively. I don't see notes. I see memories .

The elegant femininity of the bottle and the scent were what I craved when I first came across it. It was my evening and special occasion fragrance, and I still treat it as such. You have to dress and act like a lady when you're wearing Tiffany. And it gives you the confidence to do and be so. But, don't mistake it for an aloof, formal, Jackie O of a scent. It has warmth and sweetness that feels almost like vanilla, just not quite as simple. It's approachable and comforting.

Tiffany used to be more readily available than it is now. I've always bought bottles of the EdP, either from Sephora or online. Now it seems that you can only find it at Tiffany's website. everyone else is only selling the EdT if they have it at all. Tiffany also has a pure parfum version , and I'm seriously considering getting that one once I finish my current EdP bottle. I adore this scent as much as ever, but I wear it less often because of all the other bottles I have in rotation (not to mention my sampling habit). This is why I'm thinking that a tiny bottle of the pure essence might serve me well.

A Few of My Favorite Things (that are not whiskers on kittens)

I was going through my little collection of favorite perfumes, trying to figure out if there was some common denominator or if there was a way to tell what kind of fragrance I would like and what I wouldn't. I can't say that I've found a definite answer, but I decided to list all of my current favorites. I'm not linking to other sites this time, because there are just too many. What I can say is that I buy my fragrances offline and online at LuckyScent.com, Sephora, Neiman's, Saks, Bloomie's, FragranceNet.com and Perfume1.com. For what's categorized as "department store perfumes" I highly recommend checking the last two first, as their prices are significantly lower. I always go for the EDP, as I like the smell to linger. This list doesn't include everything I have or things I used to love but fell out of grace, just the most favorite ones, for now.
Reccomendations based on this would be gladly accepted.

Kingdom by Alexander McQueen- This is an odd one. I think I bought it because in a way, it reminded me (don't laugh) of Colors by Benetton, that I wore at 18 for special dates with my boyfriend. Those are some bittersweet memories and so is this fragrance. It's drier than what I usually go for and requires a certain mood. I usually wear it at night and only recently discovered that it's actually better in hot weather than it is in winter. Heat brings out a very sensual element in this one. Decent lasting power.

Tiffany (the original one, by Tiffany, of course)- I was introduced to it about 14 years ago by my friend E, who has since moved on to other fragrances. I bought it for myself in the summer of 1993 just before I met my husband, and have been wearing it ever since. It used to be the one I wore for our special dates and has stayed as a special favorite of us both. I know that many think of it as an "old lady smell", but for me it's anything but. It was perfect when I was 22 and it suits me just as well today. It's become so much a part of me that I can't even analyze the notes or anything else about it. It's one of my signature scents and I wear it easily both days and nights. Excellent staying power.

Eternity (yeah, Calvin Klein)- A favorite daytime fragrance that I've been wearing on and off since 1993. It's a sunny and happy scent, lasts for many hours.

Panthere (Cartier)- Another signature scent that seems to have been made especially for me. Like Tiffany, it's an ambery floral, but it's very very different. It's both elegant and sexy (very), I prefer it as a night time fragrance and has been wearing it since late 1995 or early 1996. It's the perfume I wore for my wedding and all through my honeymoon, which is probably why my husband adores it.

Neroli by L'Occitane- This is a much maligned fragrance (just read the reviews on makeupalley.com and see what I mean). People either love it or hate it with a white hot passion. I used to be obsessed with it, now I just love it. I never fail to get compliments when I'm wearing it. The first notes are indeed pretty harsh, but it soon changes into a spicy-sweet beauty. I wish it had more sillage, but whatever does stay close to the skin is wonderful, and my only complaint is that I wish that it lasted a lot longer.

Jil Sander No. 4- I've been wearing this complex and very layered scent for special nights during the last 6 years, and can never get enough of it. It's deep, rich and sexy, the florals are subtle and the woody-oriental base has both a lovely, lingering sillage and a strong staying power. I love the elegance and sophistication. And it calls to be worn with black, well-cut clothes. It's one of my most beloved signature scents.

Sensi (Armani)-I've heard that it's being discontinued, but I can't get it confirmed. I'd be very sorry if it's true, because I love this jasmine, wood and vanilla combination. It's sensual and elegant. A cute cold weather scent with excellent staying power.

So Pretty (Cartier)- I'm quite sure that this one is on its way to be discontinued, which is a shame. It's one of those classics, a beautiful floral with an almost animalic base. Impeccably elegant, needs to be worn with something fabulous.

Le Baiser du Dragon (Cartier)- Very different than my usual fare, not even a hint of vanilla. Very woody, but with a hard to describe twist. It's bold and rich, full of vetiver and patchouli. It's one of the few reasons to enjoy colder weather, as it's so perfect for fall. Stays on for hours.

Grand Amour (Annick Goutal)- Though different than Cartier's So Pretty, in my mind they are grouped together. Classic elegance, very French. It works for me both for day and for night, but never in jeans. Moderate staying power, lovely sillage for as long as the scent is there.

Quel Amour! (Annick Goutal)- A surprising choice for me, as the fruity element is quite prominent. But those are lovely red fruit (yet I dislike Goutal's Petite Cherie), the official notes says something about currants, but to me it's pomegranate beautifully blended with rose and peony. It's an intoxicating sunny fragrance with an incredible staying power on my skin.

Eau d'Hadrien (Annick Goutal)- Lemon and Cypress, fun and uncomplicated. Wonderful to wear first thing in the morning before doing stuff around the house. It has no staying power unless layered with something else. My little discovery is how good it is combined with Serge Luten's Un Bois Vanille.

Nuit du Hadrien (Annick Goutal)- Hadrien's grown-up, wickedly sexy sister. It's definitely very ambery and lasts much longer. I think I'll be wearing it quite often for fall mornings.

Black Cashmere (Donna Karan)- A fairly recent discovery.

Lea St. Barth Extreme- My journey with Lea is documented here and here.

Loukhoum (Keiko Mecheri)- Again, I've already raved about this one.

Monyette Paris- Everyone is more beautiful when wearing this. One of my staples this summer, as I've predicted here.

Serge Lutens- Un bois Vanille and Cedre. Another new love. Both aren't very summery, yet I'm already wearing them often. I foresee many more Serges in my future.

Valentino V Absolu- I wore the original Valentino when I was 20. I loved it despite the no staying power (it was most likely the EDT. I didn't know better in those days). V Absolu doesn't have the greatest staying power ever (I dread to think how long the regular V would last on my skin), but what is left close to the skin is a heady mix of sweet and citrusy wood, enriched with delicate vanilla. It's a day scent, especially because of the citrus and fig top notes. I love the way it reacts with my skin on a sunny day.

Sage Machado perfume oils: Onyx, Moonstone- A very recent discovery. I have yet to buy them, but for now I'm relishing the samples. They are very similar, but Onyx has more pronounced coconut note. There's something about those two that reminds me of a favorite shampoo from my childhood- Flex by Revlon. It was crap on the hair but I was addicted to its smell. I need to decide if I really love this or if it's a passing summer whim. Wonderful staying power, and for now I'm enamored.


The Heart is Deceitful Above All things (Yosh)- A stupid name for a very beautiful scent. Wood, something earthy and vanilla make this one indescribable. I'm still using the sample, but the decision has already been made. I need a full bottle.

Goldmund by Dorissima - Another very new discovery. My Luckyscents order is going to include this one as well. It's soft and complex, has some of my favorite notes (rose, vanilla, sandalwood and soft musk), doesn't resemble anything else that I have or even know and makes me feel pretty. That alone is a good reason to wear it year round. Moderate staying power, as far as I can tell, but haven't tested it enough yet to know for sure.

Out of This World- Thierry Mugler Alien

I've written before how some of the most popular and heavily praised fragrances (Prada, Cashmere Mist, Chanel Chance) don't work for me. I either dislike them instantly, or they dislike my body's chemistry and just stink.

On the other hand, some of my most favorite perfumes are a bit left-of-center when it comes to popularity. Like my long-standing love affair with Tiffany (some say it's very old ladyish, but I've been using it bottle after bottle ever since I was 22).

One of the most maligned scents of the last 12 months is Alien by Thierry Mugler. So many reviewers hated it with the kind of passion I save for Escada perfumes. It seems that a lot of people can't stand intense jasmine notes. Also, it's very strong, dark and uncompromising. I admit that just from sniffing the bottle I wouldn't notice the sexy treat that awaited me within.

The bottom line is that jasmine can work for me. It has depth and embracing qualities that for someone else would be too overwhelming, but work perfectly on my fragrance-eating skin. I wore it all winter, sometimes even for daytime and have gotten many compliments. It's different and sexy, but I do understand why it's not for everyone. As the weather gets warmer I'll see how often I reach for it. Maybe for evening.

A lot has been said about the bottle. Like the fragrance, it's different and immediately recognizable. The alien theme is strong in its design, and I've read a comment or two comparing it to a Vorlon encounter suit from Babylon 5. There is some truth in this. I might be as girly as they come, but I'm also a sci-fi nerd in disguise. I named one of my cats after Ambassador Kosh, so having him (the Vorlon, not my orange tabby) immortalized in a great perfume bottle is very nice.

For the non-nerds among you, here's Ambassador Kosh in his encounter suit. You can see and compare for yourself.


November 2007 : I can't believe the change of heart I've had about this one. Jasmine has become my nose's archnemesis, unless it's so well-blended I can't pick it up by itself. Alien started smelling harsh, artificial and skanky and the sillage was a major headache trigger. I don't know if it's my nose, my skin or just becoming more particular about perfume, but after avoiding the bottle for a year, I ended up selling it and couldn't be happier to see it go.