Nars Yachiyo Brush

Things I can't resist: kittens, fresh pasta, funky hats, figs, vintage Shalimar, handmade accessories, makeup brushes with a unique design. Nars Yachiyo brush falls under the last two categories. It's hand-spun and has an interesting handle made from black wisteria that wraps all around and feels very nice when you hold it.

One of the secrets of a really good blush brush is the amount of product is collects at one sweep and how much buffing and blending one needs to do after depositing the color on skin. That's what makes Nars Yachiyo the superb brush it is. There's something about the domed and tapered shape of the Yachio and its hair density that creates the magic- it makes even dark and very pigmented blushes almost fool-proof (as long as the color looks good on one's skin, that is).

The tapered shape makes the Yachiyo great for more delicate jobs like contouring, if you're so inclined. I played with a little and saw that it can be manipulated very well into small areas such as the sides of your nose. It's also good for touch highlighting either with the tip or sides, and some use it for cleanups, but personally, I prefer a simple fan brush for this purpose.

While this brush isn't the softest one I own, it feels pleasant enough. I've been using it for a little over a month, and while there was a little shading the first week, things are stable now. It survived its first washing (I wrapped the handle with a washcloth while doing it, to protect the black wisteria) and dried well. For such an expensive makeup brush I wish it came in nicer packaging (think Edward Bess brushes) or at least with a protective velvet pouch like Chanel or Guerlain, but that's my only complaint.

Nars Yachiyo Brush ($50) is available from narscosmetics.com and some deartment stores.

Photos by me.

Nars Rajasthan Duo Eye Shadow Fall 2010

It's pretty safe to say that Rajasthan, the midnight blue/metallic beige eye shadow duo, has proven to be the most irresistible item in the (very strong) Nars fall 2010 collection. Most brands have come up this season with a deep dark blue, but this one is unique enough to justify a purchase even if one already has a couple of the others.

At first I didn't think I'd wear both colors from this set at the same time. The beige looks darker in the compact than it is on skin, and while it's still not exactly a highlighter it's soft and neutral enough to be worn on the lid when I'm using the blue shade in the outer corners and along the lash line. My photos don't do justice to the depth and richness of the blackened midnight blue. It's absolutely gorgeous and can work both as a daytime eyeliner or for a super dramatic evening look. The shimmer is grownup, the texture satin-like, and while it's not as buttery as Guerlain or Shiseido, I think I prefer these Nars shadows to most Armani equivalents.

As with all Nars eye shadows, I find a primer necessary to keep the integrity and finish of the look. Used over my favorite base by Kanebo Sensai, Rajasthan stays put from morning to night and looks almost as fresh throughout the day.

Nars Small Domed Eye Brush

As someone with large lids and a deep crease, my favorite eye brushes are quite big and wide as to not create harsh lines and edges. But sometimes there's a need for a more precision in the crease or lid, especially when applying very pigmented dark colors to the outer corner. This is where Nars #12 Small Domed brush comes into play.

The unique thing about Nars #12 is that unlike many small brushes for detailed work it is fluffy and not very dense, so it won't pick too much color. The small dome fits into small spaces (which is why this brush is usually a top pick for Asian eyes) and deposits the right amount of dark color where you need it. The fluffiness makes it ideal for blending, and since it's small enough, the color will stay in the right place and won't spread too far.

More for Fall

Two more collections for fall are now available (at least online. For some reason, Sephora stores tend to be a little behind on these launches and I haven't checked my local department stores yet). Smashbox and Nars are offering fall looks that don't feel very fall-like, and frankly, while many of the colors are pretty, there's nothing too exciting in either collection.

Maybe it's just me, but I don't get the vision behind Nars' Modern Odyssey. It's supposedly "smolders with a moody palette of warm metallics for a look of mythic sophistication and strength.". Seriously? And how exactly does it manifest itself in the look of this model? She could just as well be cast as a victim in some b-movie. That wide-eyed, scared for her life (because her lashes has life of their own and they are about to eat her brain) is neither mythical, nor strong. And lifeless lips aren't that hot, either.

Once you look at the actual collection you find more color. The eye shadow trios are cute enough, but all over the place, and don't have anything that we haven't seen before (unlike last spring's Habanera). There's blue, there's gold, there's rose... take your pick. I like Kalahari, a combination of gold and frosted cocoa, but unless they've reinvented these colors, I don't think it's a must-have.

In the lip department, you don't actually need to look dead like their model. There's a sheer lipstick in candy apple red (Flamenco) and the Chantaco lip gloss is a very pretty reddish berry (they label it as rhubarb) that would flatter most and coordinate with most other fall colors.

The makeup on the Smashbox model, showing their Decadence collection is also heavy on the eyes on nude on the lips. It's less annoying, probably because she doesn't look as terrified as Nars Girl, which is a really good start. Out of the two eye shadow trios, I prefer the one called Indulgence, with the slate and graphite. It's an interesting alternative to the Bobbi Brown Stonewashed nudes, as long as it's lightly applied. The model seems to be wearing the other trio, Opulence, which is focused on warmer browns. Nothing we haven't seen (or don't own) before.

The gel eye liner is metallic black. I'm curious to see how different it is from last year's Lancome Starshower (it was a limited edition and is no longer available).

While the model is probably wearing the Socialite lipstick (didn't we have enough already with the "socialite" label? It's not that hot nowadays) in a sandwash pink (in other words: beiged within an inch of its life), there's a beautiful deep berry gloss under the original name "vixen".

Speaking of Smashbox: Nordstrom are offering an exclusive Smashbox set. It looks like one of the best deals in their big sale (starts tomorrow, you can already order online). It has some of their biggest bestsellers, and the eye shadow palette looks like the best collection of neutrals one could ask for. As with all Smashbox sets, the value is extraordinary (you pay $68 for a $192.50 worth of products).

Green Goddess

I wasn't going to up on my quest for a springy light green eye shadow. I knew I could find something, and actually managed to get two. One for evening, and one that is daylight friendly.

I'm a big fan of Lorac eye shadows, and wasn't disappointed this time, either. Goddess is a warm, almost golden green. The color blends well with neutrals and the shimmer is very delicate and office friendly. Like all Lorac shadows, it's high quality, goes on smoothly and lasts for hours. I wear it as a highlighter, but if your skin is lighter, it can probably work as an all over color and maybe, if applied wet or with a transformer, as a liner. Either way, it's very pretty and flattering.

There's also a green option for high voltage nights. The mint green shadow in Nars' Habanera duo is very sparkly, amazingly pigmented and makes the eyes center of attention. Unlike Goddess, this is a cool tone, almost silvery. It's very bold and doesn't work for me as a highlighter. Applied under my brow bone it makes me look ghostly. But when carefully smoothed on my lower lid, it is very flattering and makes my very dark brown eyes pop. It's way too shiny for day wear, though. Also, I have no idea how anyone can wear both the green and the plum together at the same time. The plum is almost glittery, very dark and really gorgeous, but I only wear it with a very neutral light shadow (Lorac Moonstone, one of the light shadows from the Bobbi chocolate palette or the light beige in Dior's Beige Massai).

The quality is wonderful as far as application and staying power go, but there is some glitter migration that I could live without (I wear it over a primer. It's probably worse if you don't wear one).

Covering Some Ground

I had skin on my mind when I entered Sephora earlier this week. My original intention was to have a look at the Nars skin care line, and especially at their brightening serum that got rave reviews from several bloggers. Koneko wrote that it would work as a primer, as well as being an under foundation glow thingy, only with very little shimmer and some serious skin benefits. Sounds perfect, only problem that neither the store on 5th Ave/19th st. nor the one on Union Square had the skin care products. Also, they didn't have the new makeup collection for spring. I wanted to check the Corinthe lipstick and see what was all the fuss about the Habanera eye shadow duo. But it was not to be. Curiously enough, all these products are available on the Sephora web site, just not in the stores I visited.

But I was not leaving without some goodies. I wanted a serum and was thinking about brightening. I have a couple (as in two, actually) of freckles/spots that I could do without (note to self: get very serious about using a sun block), so I picked up Caudalie's Vinoperfect Radiance Serum. I figured that it was worth a chance before I try the really big guns like ReVive that require taking a mortgage. It'll be about a month before I can write a review (4-6 weeks until you're supposed to see results), but so far it feels nice under my moisturizing cream (still rocking Secret de Vie with excellent results).

The other thing I wanted was a new concealer. I'm nearly out of the discontinued Chanel one, and after nearly nine months it's time for replacement. The selection of concealers in every Sephora store (or at any department store, or even Target) is bordering on the overwhelming. There are so many brands and they all make concealer in every texture and consistency under the sun. Trying them on is way less fun than playing with lip gloss. The results aren't that striking and you're forced to pay careful attention to an area of your face you usually do your best to ignore: the under eye (cue horror movie music).

I knew that I prefer something on the creamy side, which ruled out a product or two. Then I decided to zero in on Lorac, just because I dearly love Carol Shaw's products. Everything I purchased so far has been a success, both in texture and color. The tiny pots of creamy Coverup concealer caught my eye and I tried it on. My initial guess that I needed the C3 proved to be wrong. My color was actually C2, light.

The cream went on easily (I used my finger), looked smooth and did magic for my undereye circles. It is as close to erasing them as I could hope for. The color blended nicely with my skin, didn't crease or sink into it, thus avoiding the bad effect that too thick concealer create on my face. It also evened out my skin where needed and brightened that suspicious side-of-the-nose area. It's actually a very light product. It glosses over the dark areas, but it doesn't cover those two dark freckles I have on my cheeks. So, if you need more than a moderate coverage this might not be the concealer for you. But, for a light-handed smoothing and brightening job it's perfect and I couldn't be happier.

Coverup has an excellent staying power (I do use primer most days, but it lasts even without it) and keeps in place through the day or a night out on the town. No fading/creasing/flaking. The first Sephora I went to was temporarily actually out of C2 (as is the website), but the one on Union Square still had several, and Beauty.com has it in stock.

Stuff I will not be getting

The spring look limited editions are already here, and it looks like I'm not the target audience of any of them. So many pretty colors, so few that actually suit me. It's not a big issue right now, but soon enough I'll be getting the itch to update my look, to get something new and very fabulous. It's not going to be easy to find.

Here's what we have so far:

Annie from Blogdorf Goodman has reviewed the new MAC collection (and she has great pictures of it). It looks lovely and totally not for me. Pale, icy, pearly... Not adjectives that describe colors that should go on my face.

Nars Spring 2007 collection offers lots of sheer pinks and frosted shadows (am I the only one who is getting Cyndi Lauper flashbacks from frosted mint green?). Their Corinthe sheer lipstick actually doesn't look half bad. It's a sheer almond and I might have to check that one out. Everything else is for a much lighter complexion.

Smashbox Tokidoki spring 2007 collection (a limited edition, of course) is unbelievably cute, Japanese-inspired and very very pink. One of the shadow quads, Modella, with it's deep purple and peweter colors might have some potential for me, if the lighter shades are pigmented enough to even show on my skin. But other than that, another no go (it doesn't even look good on the model Smashbox are using to show this collection. And she's a blue eyed blonde!).

The good news is that I just saved $50 by not buying the new limited edition Bobbi Brown violet face palette. The bad news is that Bobbi Brown is all about violet this season. Violet is a lovely color. In theory. It just doesn't belong on my face, as I don't do the Three Days Decaying Corpse look. The worst news is that some women are actually going to be sporting the orchid and violet shimmers on their faces.

Lip Service

I can only speak for myself here, but my quest for the perfect lip color moves between two extremes: The perfect red and the perfect nude. Now, what stands as "nude" to me is not nude for most. My natural lip color is on the dark pink side of the spectrum, so anything lighter is either invisible or gives me the oh-so-attractive Night at the Morgue look.

I have several long-standing favorites from both color groups and will talk about them soon enough. But I was interested in finding something new and highly pigmented. So I decided to go for Nars. After all, they are famous for their colors (even though I can tell you that despite all the hype and claims to the opposite, their Orgasm blush does NOT look good on every skin tone. If you're olive with a side of healthy green, there's no way you can pull off anything coral. You will look like a papaya).

Nars lipsticks come in quite a selection of colors and several finishes: semi-matte, satin and sheer(though you will not get much info about which is which from Sephora- the lip colors are all grouped together both in store and online). The hues are pretty and wearable. They don't specialize in Barbie pink or junior prom match-my-dress purple. My red choice was Gipsy. I picked Pigalle as my natural looking color. If you look online, you will see that the latter is a pink chocolate color. Gipsy is described on Sephora's web site as a "warm berry", while the color swatch for it on Beauty.com is very brown. Nars web site make all the colors look a bit lighter than they actually are, at least that's the way it appears on my screen.

Back to Gipsy: it might have a trace of berry, but not much. It's more of a brownish muted red which to me resembles Lancôme's Maple Sugar (one of my staple colors). It's noticeable without being in-your-face and works for me as a daytime red.

But now we get to talk about texture, which is where these pretty colors fail miserably. They are supposed to be enriched with vitamin E and look either naturally stained (Gipsy is sheer) or velvety (Pigalle is semi-matte). From this description you'll never guess just how dry and unpleasant they ended up on my lips.

Gipsy, which is supposed to have more moisture feels sticky in a dry way- as though it's a residue of something syrupy that was not thoroughly wiped. It looks good enough, but no amount of lip gloss can make it feel better as long as the thing is in direct contact with my lips.

Pigalle ended up being worse. It is so dry that I have no idea how it is supposed to create the promised "velvety, full-bodied" look. It felt like it was sucking all the moisture from my (well exfoliated and moisturized) lips, which ended up making the color too dark. What was even worse, the lipstick settled on my lips in such a way that instead of coating it clung to the skin, making it the only lip color I know that exposed a very tiny, nearly invisible scar that I have on my lower lip. It's not noticeable even when I'm not wearing a lipstick ot a gloss, and every other product (other than real lip stains) glides over it. But Pigalle just made my lips look ugly and feel scorched.

The good news is that I did manage to find a way to wear both colors, so it was not a waste of $46. I apply them over a thick coat of very creamy, moisturizing nude lipstick. It tones down the color a little bit, but it still looks good, and feels the way lips are supposed to feel.

I think that my next post will be on lip color that actually feels good.